The region of Aquitaine is situated in South West France and only three hours away from traffic-clogged and noisy Paris.  The western borders of the region are lapped by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean; those of the East and the North are neighboured by the Midi-Pyrénées, Limousin and Poitou-Charentes regions; and those of the South are adjoined by the Kingdom of Spain.  Aquitaine is a land of contrasts which blends the aristocratism of Bordeaux with the simplicity of Périgord, unites the sweetness of the Sauternes wines and the strength of Armagnac, and reconciles the calm waters of the Bay of Arcachon with the force of the Atlantic Ocean. With its mild climate, rich flora and fauna, it is no surprise that the region has been inhabited since ancient times.  The first man to inhabit Aquitania was Cro-Magnon (40,000 – 10,000 BC), evidenced by the Lascaux cave in Périgord, known as the ‘Sistine Chapel of prehistoric art’.

Aquitaine is the third largest region in France and the leading wine producer. It also boasts the highest sand dune and the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe, and the widest estuary and largest square in France. It is the birthplace of many great writers including Montaigne, Montesquieu and Mauriac. The surfboard, which was brought to Europe from California by screenwriter Peter Virtelom, was first tested on the Atlantic coast of Aquitaine.

The sea and sand, mountains and pine trees, and the vineyards and rich cultural heritage are the traits that paint the portrait of this unique region, where we have decided to begin our journey through the provinces of France.

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It was on the morning of Friday, the eight-and-twentieth day of November, two days before the feast of St. Andrew, that the cog and her two prisoners, after a weary tacking up the Gironde and the Garonne, dropped anchor at last in front of the noble city of Bordeaux. With wonder and admiration, Alleyne, leaning over the bulwarks, gazed at the forest of masts, the swarm of boats darting hither and thither on the bosom of the broad curving stream, and the gray crescent-shaped city which stretched with many a tower and minaret along the western shore. Never had he in his quiet life seen so great a town, nor was there in the whole of England, save London alone, one which might match it in size or in wealth. Here came the merchandise of all the fair countries which are watered by the Garonne and the Dordogne—the cloths of the south, the skins of Guienne, the wines of the Medoc—to be borne away to Hull, Exeter, Dartmouth, Bristol or Chester, in exchange for the wools and woolfels of England. Here too dwelt those famous smelters and welders who had made the Bordeaux steel the most trusty upon earth, and could give a temper to lance or to sword which might mean dear life to its owner. Alleyne could see the smoke of their forges reeking up in the clear morning air. The storm had died down now to a gentle breeze, which wafted to his ears the long-drawn stirring bugle-calls which sounded from the ancient ramparts.

For many people, Bordeaux is traditionally associated with vast and renowned countryside vineyards. The popularity of its wines seems to have gradually overshadowed the city itself and its rich cultural heritage, which is unfair; in 2007, 150 hectares in the historic part of the city were included into the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites. As a result, Bordeaux took second place after Paris in the number of classified sites in France. The town was also awarded the prestigious title of ‘The City of Art and History’.

THE QUAY IS WHERE BORDEAUX BEGINS

The history of Bordeaux starts on the banks of the Garonne, which carves a smooth bend in the form of a crescent and divides the city into two halves. This elegant river bend gave Bordeaux its second name – le Port de la Lune – which means the Port of the Moon. Yet it is not only this name that the river has given to the city.

Being the fourth largest waterway in France, the Garonne is navigable even for ships, and this provides a practical means for trade and the transportation of goods. The river bend also symbolizes a change in the fate of the town, as Bordeaux wasn’t always as refined and bourgeois as it is in the present day. There was a time when the city was immured in stone walls with towers and battlements to protect the city against intruders, who could arrive from the sea at any moment. In the dark Middle Ages, there was no place for comfort, luxury or beauty.

Everything changed in the 18th century, with the age of Enlightenment, new discoveries and scientific progress. It wasn’t comme il faut to continue to live in the past; it was time for transformation and the replacing of the old order with a new one. The Gabriels, Andre Porter, Victor Louis, Bonfan, Molesko and others were the architects who helped Bordeaux cast off the stone chains and opened it up to the world. Henceforth, every stranger coming to the port via the Garonne could bear witness to the wealth and power of Bordeaux. At the end of the 18th century, Arthur Young, an English economist, wrote, « I’ve read and heard a lot about the trade, wealth and splendour of this city, but what I see exceeds all my expectations ». The colossal metamorphosis of Bordeaux began long before Haussmann’s renovation of Paris, with the buildings in La Place de la Bourse being the first to be constructed. At that time, this square was called the Royal Square and the equestrian statue of Louis XV proudly stood in the place of the Trois Grâces fountain.

Opposite the square, across the road, is the Miroir d’Eau fountain, a masterpiece of the 21st century. Designed by Jean-Max Llorca, the piece alternates two effects: that of a mirror and that of fog. In its calm state, the water surface reflects the magnificent buildings of La Place de la Bourse, while the fog turns a part of the quay into a snow white cloud, where children run and play. During the warm summer months, the fountain becomes a favourite amusement of passers-by; energetic youngsters run barefoot, lie down and roll head over heels in the watery mist. Early in the morning and late in the evening the fountain falls into the hands of photographers, appreciators of all that is beautiful.

The quay is particularly stunning in the morning, blushing like a young coquette in the rays of the rising sun.

ESPLANADE DES QUINCONCES

The two rostral columns that can be seen from afar indicate the entrance to La Place des Quinconces, the largest square in France. They are reminiscent of the rostral columns in St. Petersburg, the twin city of Bordeaux. There is also the sky-piercing Girondists monument, erected in the late 19th century by the architect Rich, the sculptors Dumilâtre, Charpentier and Debrie, that climbs high into the clouds just like the Alexander Column in St. Petersburg. At the foot of the monument there are two magnificent fountains decorated by two sea horses with snake tails, with jets of water gushing from their nostrils. Interestingly, this particular spot has a history of its own. Until the early 19th century, the Trompett castle stood here, built in the 15th century to commemorate the end of the Hundred Years War and the triumph of the French over the English.

However, the stone giant was like a black spot on the city map, reminiscent of the usurpations of the Crown; it was therefore decided to demolish it. On the place where the castle once stood appeared a large space, which the municipality of Bordeaux planned to build upon. One of the projects was a fountain by the sculptor Bartholdi, which was also to be adorned with figures of spirited horses. However, the city rejected the proposal due to the high projected cost, instead selecting an equally innovative one that we can still admire today.

La Place des Quinconces is embraced by a tram line. Bordeaux can truly be proud of its modern trams, which were put into operation in 2003; they are absolutely noiseless and operate on third rail.

THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE

We leave behind the Allées de Tourny, part of the so-called ‘Golden Triangle’, an area with the most prestigious real estate and fashion boutiques in Bordeaux. This is a strategically important point for wine connoisseurs, and houses L’Intendant, a four-floor chateau wine shop, La Vinotheque de Bordeaux, Bordeaux Magnum, and the Badie boutiques.
The most famous building in the Golden Triangle is the Bordeaux Grand Theâtre, located in La Place de la Comédie. Like a reserved aristocrat, it languorously watches over the passers-by, while the nine muses and three goddesses, Juno, Minerva and Venus, exchange glances from its portico.

It took seven years for the architect Victor Louis to build the Grand Theâtre, and in 1780 the first theatrical season opened with the staging of ‘Athalie’ by Racine. The theatre could accommodate 1,700 spectators, which raised it to the rank of one of the largest theatres in Europe at the time. In the 19th century, its royal staircase inspired Charles Garnier to design the Grand Opera de Paris. Until the 20th century, the Bordeaux theatre remained a prominent example of European theatre architecture.

The city chronicles say that the construction of the theatre was sponsored by the patrons of art of the Masonic Lodge, that Richelieu and Victor Louis were Masons, and that the whole theatre was brimming with Masonic symbolism. For example, the number of columns is not accidental; 12 is the sum of all the edges of the Freemasons’ sacred triangle. The three goddesses, Venus, Juno and Minerva, represent the three Masonic virtues of beauty, strength and wisdom.
Opposite the theatre is the Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux (InterContinental), the former Rolly residence (Hôtel Rolly), which was built in 1779. In its new role, the Grand Hôtel was opened in 2007, its interior entirely designed by the famous French architect and designer Jacques Garcia, who also fashioned the interior of the Montparnasse Tower, the Royal Monceau Hotel in Paris and La Mamounia in Marrakech.

La Place de la Comédie is crossed by the two major arteries of the old town: Cours de l’Intendance, which is also known as ‘Les Champs Elysees of Bordeaux’; and Sainte-Catherine, the longest shopping street in Europe. The latter can be considered the backbone of Bordeaux that connects the parts of the city of vastly different character: the bourgeois Golden Triangle and the cosmopolitan La Place de la Victoire, popular with students. This street has more than two hundred stores, including the upmarket department store Galeries Lafayette. On Saturdays, Sainte-Catherine is overwhelmed by a flood of people that are capable of mowing down anything in their path. The elegant mansions of the 18th – 19th centuries located on Cours de l’Intendance are home to such brand stores as Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Guess, Gant, Repetto, Kenzo and others. These two streets are a paradise for shopaholics, while La Place des Grands Hommes, with its indoor city market, is paradise for gourmets.

The modern building of the market was constructed in the early 1990s and is in harmony with the architectural ensemble of the 18th and 19th centuries. Streets named after the great thinkers of the Renaissance and the Enlightenment (Voltaire, Rousseau, Diderot, Montesquieu and Montaigne) radiate out from the square. Montesquieu and Montaigne were born in Bordeaux and both even held the post of city mayor. Rue de Montesquieu is home to one of the oldest haute cuisine restaurants, called Chapon Fin. Opposite the restaurant is the Jean d’Alos fromagerie, where many famous Bordeaux chefs buy cheese for their concoctions. According to Brij-Savarin, a renowned chef, ‘A dessert without cheese is like a beautiful woman without eyes’. Jean d’Alos offers an ocean of cheese for lovers of this savoury delicacy: hard, soft, tender and ‘with character’. On Rue Malby, located in the same quarter, lies another temple of taste, the Lafitte Foie Gras Shop, where foie gras and other regional specialties are on offer.

GALLO-ROMANS, MONKS AND BISHOPS

The history of Bordeaux dates back to the pre-Christian era. The first people to inhabit it were Celtic tribes, the Bituriges, who founded a port city, Burdigala, on the left bank of the Garonne in the 3rd – 1st centuries BC. This strategically important port was then conquered by the Gallo-Romans, who made Bordeaux a growing, prosperous capital city in the vast territories of Aquitaine. Alas, time has no pity for anyone or anything, and it is only the Gallien Amphitheatre (Palais Gallien, 3rd century) that has remained since that time. A legend says that it was built by Charlemagne in honour of his wife Gallien; however, it was later discovered that the building had served as an amphitheatre and could seat twenty-two thousand spectators, and was presumably built on the command of the Roman Emperor Gallienus. Visitors can only imagine how glorious this monument used to be and what spectacular performances and fierce battles took place here. During the Middle Ages the amphitheatre was shrouded in mystery; it is said to have been a place of witches’ Sabbath, a house of ladies of pleasure and also a shelter for the homeless.

Saint-Seurin Church, named after the fourth bishop of Bordeaux, is located not far from the amphitheatre, and is a very light, airy and harmonious building. The Romanesque style is considered to help believers focus on their main objective: strengthening their spirit and faith. Legend says that Roland’s olifant, a horn on which he blew to call for help from Charlemagne during the Battle of Roncevaux Pass, was kept in the church. Pilgrims from all over Europe who follow the Way of Saint James come to the church to honour the relics of Saint Fort and Saint Seurin, as well as Roland’s olifant.

The soul of Bordeaux lies in Cathédrale Saint-André. Entering the cathedral, visitors get a feeling of travelling ten centuries back in time. The first stone of the cathedral was laid in the 11th century, and the following eight centuries saw the reconstruction, expansion and restoration of the building. The wedding of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Louis VII, the future king of France, took place here in the 12th century. Five centuries later, their nuptials were followed by those of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. The cathedral has seen a lot throughout its existence: wars, the Inquisition, earthquakes, epidemics, riots and the French Revolution. Its sombre dark walls, made from limestone, seem to have absorbed all the anguish of these times. A little further from here stands the Pey Berland Bell Tower, built by the order of Bishop Berland in the 15th century. In the 19th century, its spire was decorated with the statue of Our Lady looking in the direction of Médoc, the Bishop’s birthplace. The largest bell, called Ferdinand, weighs eight tons. Presumably, it was named after Ferdinand Mériadec de Rohan, archbishop of Bordeaux, who also commanded the construction of the Episcopal Palace. Since the 19th century, the building has been the location of the City Hall, with Alain Juppé being the incumbent mayor.

The bell tower allows a striking panoramic view of the old town. The spire of St. Michael’s Basilica and the towers of the big bell, known as the ‘Grosse Cloche’, as well as the Porte de Cailhau gate can be seen in the distance. Slightly in the foreground, the curlicue pinnacles of the cathedral are visible, resembling a forest of masts. To the side, one can see the Pont de Pierre, the bohemian St. Peter’s quarter, the bourgeois Tourney park, the Marché des Capucins, La Place de la Victoire, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of Aquitaine. There are numerous other fascinating places to visit in Bordeaux, where one can stroll around and enjoy the spirit of a provincial city with a unique history and architecture.

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‘To write about Arcachon is to talk about miracles. Today, this spacious beach attracts people from all over Europe: the British, Spanish, Germans and French dispute the right to build luxury villas in this paradise … Arcachon used to be a deserted place with empty beaches, where only custom officers ventured after a shipwreck, to find the body of a lost friend in order to return him to his widow or grief-stricken sons. The house of God was in the forest, where some locals went to pray in silence and fear, to the Virgin who protects, and to God who spares sailors from shipwrecks. Today, all this is replaced by the magnificent villas rising not only on the coast of Arcachon, but extending further’.

The Bay of Arcachon. ‘A desert yesterday, a village today and a city tomorrow!’ These words of the first mayor of Arcachon, Alphonse de Lamarck Pleasance, became the motto of the city. May the 2^nd 1857 became the official birthday of Arcachon. The city would have remained a desert if Francois Legale hadn’t decided to build a hotel with thermal treatments here in 1823, strange idea as it was to do such a thing on this forgotten piece of land.  At that time, the only decorations visible on the coast were the beaches, pine forests, denes and a few fishermen’s houses.

Due to the thermal treatments on offer, the first tourists to visit the Bay of Arcachon were wealthy elderly people in poor health.  Family doctors often prescribed a rest on the Atlantic coast to their patients, aware of the healing properties of its marine waters. Doctors noticed that iodized air combined with the fragrance of pine forests had a positive effect on the immune system, healed the respiratory tracts and help fight against tuberculosis. Another place in the region renowned for restorative properties is St. Anne’s hot spring. The municipality and investors turned Arcachon into a city with a world reputation; healthy tourists soon replaced the sick ones in search of healing.

Annually, Arcachon produces about 10,000 tons of oysters, and the region is a major supplier of young oysters in France. About 60 – 70% of small oysters are transported from Arcachon to other regions to be raised. So, the next time you eat oysters somewhere in Brittany or Normandy remember that they may have originated in Arcachon.

OYSTERS. We had heard a lot about the oysters from the Bay of Arcachon, so our first destination was the Port de Larros, which is located in Gujean-Mestras. The Bay of Arcachon is dotted with such ports, from La Hume to Cap Ferret – not to be confused with the Cap-Ferrat. Here you can taste the salty sea air, see wooden huts on both sides of the harbour, and spy boats and oyster barges on the muddy bottom. ‘This might be the low tide’, we thought. The eccentric hut where we decided to try the oysters was called Le Routioutiou. However, what started out as a modest tasting session gradually turned into a full-blown dinner. The owner, whose name is Fabrice, has farmed oysters in the Bay of Arcachon for many years, after inheriting the family business from his father. A very friendly and talkative person, he gave us a master class on how to open oysters and told us about his work.

The reality is, oyster farming is hard physical work, and not very well paid at that. For this reason, many of the younger generation don’t wish to carry on the family businesses and prefer to work in the city.  The figures speak for themselves; in 1960, there were 1,738 oyster farmers, but today there are no more than 350. Despite this, Fabrice remains optimistic; he enjoys his work and can’t imagine his life without the sea.

Geraldine, Fabrice’s wife, warmly welcomes guests to the hut. Together with the oysters, she served us a novel dish, butter with Espelette pepper and seaweed. Oysters from here are served at Le Routioutiou with wine vinegar, lemon, and, of course, a glass or two of local white wine. Fabrice advised us to cut the oyster from the muscle which connects it to the shell; indeed, all the flavour of the shellfish lies within the muscle.

Like wines, the oysters of the Bay of Arcachon differ from one another depending on the place of origin. Experts can easily differentiate between the oyster from Banc d’Arguin, Cap Ferret, Grand Banc and from the Ile aux Oiseaux. It is of unanimous opinion that the best oysters are from Banc d’Arguin. This is because, despite the proximity of the salty ocean, the oysters have a slightly sweet flavour. They practically never move their muscles and remain tender and fleshy, and simply melt in your mouth when eaten.

There is a peculiar tradition in Bordeaux to serve oysters with grilled sausages, such as chipolatas or a flat sausage called a ‘crépinette’. This tradition has nothing to do with mere gourmandise or an attempt to artfully combine hot and cold; the reason is much more prosaic. There was a time when the French administration didn’t allow fishermen to taste oysters without a hot meal. So they came up with the idea of eating oysters with sausages; simple and nutritious at the same time.

SAND. As our visit drew to a close, we were extremely reluctant to leave this peaceful haven. The sun was shining, the water was rising and the gulls were squawking… ‘I thought that France like this didn’t exist anymore’, was the contemplative comment of one of our fellow travellers. But, alas, the new discoveries lying ahead were beckoning us, and we set off to Dune du Pyla.

We drove to the dune through the resort town of Arcachon. The two parts of Arcachon are absolutely different, one being a summer town and the other a winter town. The summer town has beaches, hotels, residences with apartments, restaurants and shops. The idea of ​​building the winter town belongs to the Pereire brothers. In the 19^th century, a huge health concern was tuberculosis. Doctors noticed that the local fishermen and collectors of resin never contracted tuberculosis despite poor standards of hygiene.  This sealed the destiny of the winter town as a large open air resort. In order to treat wealthy patients, villas in different styles were built, along with the English garden, Mauritanian casino, Chinese buffet and Grand Hôtel. Streets and alleys were designed in such a way that eliminated draughts.  Overall, the winter town is a very charming area, and an interesting contrast to its summer neighbour.

After admiring the stunning views from the observation tower Observatoire Sainte-Cécile, we went to the jetée Thiers pier, where we found a catamaran with a captain awaiting us. ‘Cast off! Raise the sails!’ he called, and we sailed along the coast to Dune du Pyla, where the sandy beauty slowly revealed itself to our eyes. Today, it is the tallest sand dune in Europe at 115 metres, and this giant sandpit enchants adults and children alike. From the water, the enormity of the dune was apparent as those attempting to climb it appeared to us like tiny ants.

About eight thousand years ago, the sea receded and uncovered a lot of sand, part of which was later displaced to the Landes plain by the wind. Before that time, pines, willows, birches and alders grew on this vast area. In 1855, the dune reached 35 metres in height, and in just half a century it grew even higher to 83 metres. An important role was played by the sandbank Banc d’Arguin, the main source of sand. It is not only the Dune du Pyla where you can see this; to the south there is yet another mountain of sand to observe. Sailing closer to the Banc D’Arguin, you can better see the oyster parks. Oysters spend most of their lives here eating plankton. This mollusc needs about three years to grow to a medium size № 3; the smallest size being № 5 and the largest being № 00.

SEA. The coast of the Bay of Biscay in this area is called the ‘Côte d’Argent’ – the ‘Silver Coast’. It is Maurice Martin, the journalist, who attributed this colour to the shimmering waters. By that time, the Mediterranean coast had already been called the ‘Côte d’Azur’, while the northern coast of Brittany was known for its emerald colour. In the summer, the water temperature in the bay reaches 23 – 24 °C, and to the side of the Bay of Biscay it is never higher than 20-22 °C.

Our catamaran rounded the Argen sandbank and came to Cap Ferret, which separates the Bay of Arcachon from the Bay of Biscay. This cape is often compared to St. Tropez, as more and more French celebrities buy or rent real estate here, thus increasing the prestige of holidays in Cap Ferret. Today, a small villa of 130m2， located not far from the beach, can cost as much as 1 million euros and upwards.

In general, the locals don’t like the star status of Cap Ferret; indeed, a fishing area turned celebrity hotspot is a transformation that is disliked by many. Yet it is the authenticity and simplicity that attract the elite. The first things that we saw when we were sailing along Cap Ferret were the tiny wooden houses with red roofs, stakes in the water and snow white coastline with boats. What beauty! Cap Ferret has a lot of wooden buildings, this being a tradition as well as a reflection of modern housing trends in France.

In the bay, between Arcachon and Cap Ferret, there is an island, called the Ile aux Oiseaux, or the ‘Island of Birds’. This was our destination. The island is literally imprisoned by the oyster parks, and serves as a kind of a hotel for such birds as the egret, curlew, broad-billed sandpiper, lark, loon and others, who like to rest here and to regain their strength.

The rising tide reduces the area of ​​the island to 300 hectares, while the low tide increases it up to 3,000 hectares. Until the 19^th century it was a place for grazing cows and horses, as well as growing crops. Unfortunately, a few devastating hurricanes put an end to that. Now there are the oyster parks with nets and stakes around the island, and on the island itself stand houses on stilts, also called ‘tchanquée’ – the Gascon word for stilts.

Bathed in the waters of the Atlantic and rich in fish and oysters, the bay of Arcachon is a popular holiday destination for the French, Spanish, Dutch and English, and remains a place of bliss and contentment, where luxurious villas are hidden under thick swathes of pines.

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In this region, it is difficult not to love wine, because life seems to be all about it. Whatever the weather, come rain or shine, all talk revolves around how this will affect future harvests. Yet this isn’t surprising, because Bordeaux is the largest vineyard area in France and the world leader in the production of origin-controlled (AOC) vintage wines. Every sixth person in the region, directly or indirectly, is involved in winemaking. At the negotiating table and in a restaurant, on holiday and at the workplace, sooner or later people will begin to talk about wine and food.

There is no record of when the first vineyard was cultivated in Bordeaux. However, in the 1^st century AD, vineyards covered the whole province of Aquitaine. There were so many of them that in 92 AD the Emperor Domitian had not only to impose a ban on further planting, but also to order the reduction to as much as half of the existing ones. The Act was repealed only in the 3^rd century by the Emperor Probus.

There have been several golden ages in the history of winemaking in Bordeaux.  In the 13^th century, the port La Rochelle, the largest vineyard in Aquitaine, surrendered to the French Crown, and English kings had to buy wine in Bordeaux. At that time the port of Bordeaux amassed wines from Bergerac, Cahors, Gaillac and Pamiers. However, this did not last long, and in the middle of the 13^th century, Bordeaux got the right from English kings to be the first in selling wines from the banks of the Garonne. At that time no one knew how to stabilize wine, and it gradually turned to vinegar. Therefore, the privilege of priority sales was very important; while wine from the neighbouring regions became vinegar, the merchants from Bordeaux had already had a chance to sell theirs and even to collect the revenue.

In the 17^th – 18^th centuries, drainage work was carried out in Médoc, which turned wetlands into areas suitable for winemaking. The Bordeaux members of parliament began to buy these areas for vineyards, and this is how the chateaux wines of Médoc appeared.

In the 21st century, the Asian market decided that it was prestigious to drink Bordeaux, and the Grand Cru prices rose to unprecedented levels. In good years, Lafite, Margaux, Pétrus, Ausone and others cost several thousands euros. Fortunately, for ordinary wine lovers Bordeaux offers lesser known, but very good wines.

There is a saying in Bordeaux that goes ‘In a good year, buy the small chateaux wines and in a bad year, the grand chateaux ones!’

‘To be beautiful a vine should suffer!’ The sadistic approach to winemaking brings many benefits. A vine’s suffering begins in its infancy. First, it is grafted upon the roots of an American vine. This is a prerequisite which was introduced in the late 19^th century to combat the vine pest phylloxera, imported from the U.S. The root larvae of the parasite used to attach themselves to the roots of the vines that were not engrafted and killed them within three years. The next stage in the vine’s ordeal is planting. In some areas, the frequency of planting reaches ten thousand vines per hectare. Why? In order to promote competition among the vines and ‘let the best vine win!’ Lastly, it is forbidden to irrigate vineyards, because it is required that the vine search for moisture and nutrients deep in the soil without any assistance.

The Wine Rivers of Bordeaux

When one starts talking about Bordeaux, the image of thick dark red wine immediately comes to mind. This comes as no surprise because the name of the claret red colour, which until the middle of the 20^th century was called the ‘bordeaux’ colour, derives from the colour of Bordeaux red wines. Some connoisseurs call Bordeaux wines ‘the wines of the rivers’, because the borders of winemaking regions are traced by the flowing watercolour lines of the three major rivers: the Dordogne, Garonne and Gironde.

On the left bank of the Garonne and Gironde there are the vineyards of Médoc, Graves and Sauternes. Between the Garonne and the Dordogne there is a winemaking region called Entre-deux-Mers – ‘Between two seas’. On the right bank of the Dordogne lie the St. Emilion and Pomerol vineyards. These are the most famous winemaking regions in Bordeaux. Overall, there are more than 57 appellations that are detailed in wine encyclopaedias.

The Alchemy of Wine

Oenologists point out that the unique quality of Bordeaux wines is determined by four major factors. First, the mild climate and the structure of soil (terroir); secondly, the kinds of grapes used in winemaking; thirdly, yearly weather conditions (millésime); and fourthly, the knowledge and experience of winemakers. The climate of the region is influenced by the proximity of the ocean. Winters are warm, and periods of snow are rare and short-lived. There are exceptions, of course, that once again confirm the rule. January 2007 was marked by a snowy week that brought lots of fun to children and lots of worry to winemakers.

Bordeaux produces mainly blended wines that are a combination of wines of different grape varieties. The established norms allow the planting of only twelve types of grape – six red wine grapes and six white – in the province. The most common reds are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, while the most common whites are Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle.

The whites ripen slightly earlier than the reds, so their harvest begins in August or September. For this period, every winery hires seasonal workers, and the grapes are gathered by hand. For white wine, grape clusters are squeezed in the winepress, the juice is poured into large vats or barrels. The next steps include alcoholic fermentation and aging in oak barrels during 8-12 months. However, aging in barrels is not mandatory, and many wineries do not do this.

The red wine making process is different from the production of white wines. After being harvested, the grapes are transported to the winery and sorted on the sorting tables. the grape is crushed (the crushing consists of breaking the grape berries to extract the must without crushing the seeds). Next, a mixture of grape juice, skins, pulp and seeds is poured into large vats. At this stage, different grape varieties are not mixed.

Alcoholic fermentation takes about 7 to 10 days. During this time it is necessary to control the temperature in the vat so that it does not rise above 32°C, otherwise the yeast, which converts sugar into ethanol, will die. The fermentation process releases carbon dioxide, which pushes the grape skins, pulp and seeds up to the surface, forming a so-called ‘cap’.

Grape juice has no colour, as all fragrances, colour and tannins are in the skin and seeds. To extract these elements a winemaker makes a mixture of the must and the cap, which is followed by maceration. The flavoured bordeaux must is separated from the grape skins, pulp and seeds, then further fermentation takes place. After this, wine is transferred to oak barrels where it ages from 8 to 24 months. During all this time, the wine evaporates through the pores of the oak, so the winemaker must constantly refill it to avoid the wine turning into vinegar.

Barrels – but not for honey

Particular attention is given to the choice of oak barrels. The first important thing is the wood used. The barrels are made from oak, usually sourced in France, Eastern Europe or America. However, most winemakers prefer French oak, even despite the fact that barrels made from American oak are 30 – 40% cheaper than their French counterparts.  Among French breeds preference is given to sessile oak wood because of its soft and subtle tannins. The average age of the oak is 150 to 200 years old. The oldest used was from Versailles, from an oak planted in 1680; Marie Antoinette herself would often sit in the shadow of its branches. Tragically, in 2003, the oak could not bear the terrible summer heat, and had to be cut down. The wood was sold at auction and used for making wine barrels. The cost of such a barrel reached 1,500 euros, in lieu of the usual 600 to 700 euros. The volume of a Bordeaux barrel is 225 litres, which fills 300 standard bottles, while the volume of a Burgundian one is 228 litres.

After the tree has been cut down it is split, and the oak staves are left in the open air for two or three years, and sometimes for as long as six years. During this period, the wood dries out in natural conditions.  Its exposure to the sun and the rain causes it to lose its colour and tannins, and its humidity is reduced from 80% to 15-18%. It is only after this process that the blackened and strengthened staves fall into the hands of a cooper. He shaves, hoops and warms them in the fire, moistens the wood, making it more flexible, and then shapes them. But that’s not all; for wine, one of the determining factors is the degree of firing. The cooper puts a half finished barrel without a bottom or a top on the fire and burns its inner walls. With a weak firing the barrel gives a vanilla flavour to wine and with a strong firing it imbues the wine with notes of roasted coffee, caramel and smoke.

Vineyards give abundant information about winemaking in Bordeaux to the visitors, so we won’t dwell on the details any longer; it is time to set off along the wine roads of Bordeaux. It is impossible to visit all the wine regions of the province in a week, but it is a must to visit the most famous ones. So let Médoc be our first destination.

L’article The wine roads of Bordeaux est apparu en premier sur RED & WHITE.